Palazzo Maffei is a house museum overlooking Piazza delle Erbe in the heart of Verona. Behind its distinctive Baroque facade, rooms with period details hold a private art collection that moves from antiquity to the twentieth century. The rooftop balustrade, lined with statues of classical deities, is one of the square’s most recognisable sights.
Built for the Maffei family in the 17th century, the palazzo stands on the site of Verona’s Roman forum, now occupied by Piazza delle Erbe. Traces of the ancient Capitolium survive beneath the building, linking the museum to the city’s Roman past. The collection assembled by Luigi Carlon brings together antiquities, old-master paintings and works by modern artists including Picasso, Morandi and Fontana.
The pleasure of visiting is in seeing these different eras together in domestic-scale rooms rather than a conventional white-walled gallery. It’s a rewarding stop for anyone interested in art and architecture, and a useful indoor escape from summer heat or a rainy afternoon.
Allow around two hours for a visit and check the official website for current opening days and times. Booking ahead is sensible during peak travel periods. The museum is in Verona’s pedestrianised centre, a short walk from the Arena and Juliet’s House; comfortable shoes help on the uneven cobbles around the piazza.