The Civic Museum of Ancient Art in Turin occupies Palazzo Madama, the striking palace at the heart of Piazza Castello. Its Baroque façade gives way to medieval towers around the sides, while traces of a Roman gateway survive in the foundations. The building alone offers a compact history of the city.
The site evolved from a Roman gate into a fortified castle and later a Savoy residence. It takes its name from two royal regents known as the Madame Reali; architect Filippo Juvarra designed the grand façade and staircase in the early 18th century. Palazzo Madama also hosted the Senate in the early years of unified Italy.
Inside, the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica ranges from medieval sculpture and illuminated manuscripts to ceramics, glass, textiles and paintings. Its best-known work is Antonello da Messina’s Portrait of a Man, a small, arresting painting worth taking time over. Moving between the fortress levels and ornate palace rooms is as much a part of the visit as the collection itself.
Allow a couple of hours, and check the official website for current opening times and exhibition closures. If you hope to see Turin from the tower, confirm that it is open on the day of your visit. The museum is an easy walk from Porta Nuova station along Via Roma, with trams and buses also serving the area around Piazza Castello.