Kabukichō is Shinjuku’s neon-lit entertainment district, a dense grid of karaoke rooms, izakayas, cinemas, host clubs and love hotels just northeast of Shinjuku Station. It was named for a kabuki theatre planned during Tokyo’s postwar reconstruction, although the theatre was never built. Instead, the neighbourhood became one of Japan’s best-known nightlife quarters, with a starring role in films, manga and crime fiction.
After dark, walk through the red Kabukichō Ichiban-gai gate and into streets crowded with signs, music and late-night diners. The Godzilla head atop the Shinjuku Toho Building adds a suitably theatrical touch. On the district’s eastern side, Golden Gai offers a different pace: a network of narrow lanes lined with tiny bars, many with room for only a handful of guests. Nearby Omoide Yokocho, by the west side of Shinjuku Station, is known for smoky yakitori counters rather than street stalls.
Visit in the evening for the full neon effect, or come by day to see the streets at a quieter pace. Carry some cash for smaller bars, and check menus and cover charges before ordering; some venues may be closed to first-time customers. Politely decline street touts rather than following them into bars, where visitors can face unexpectedly high bills.