Old Town Tbilisi, or Dzveli Kalaki, is a walkable maze of lanes, courtyards and carved wooden balconies along the Mtkvari River. Below Narikala Fortress, its jumble of churches, wine bars and sulphur bathhouses gives the Georgian capital some of its most distinctive streets.
Tbilisi’s history stretches back roughly 1,500 years, and the old town bears traces of Persian and Ottoman influence, Russian imperial rule and the Soviet era. The neighbourhood is still lived in: look beyond the restored facades to find shared courtyards and balconies that show how domestic life has long spilled out into the street.
Visit the domed sulphur baths in Abanotubani, then wander uphill towards Narikala for views across the rooftops and river. Wear sturdy shoes for the uneven paving and steep lanes, and book a private bath room ahead if you have a particular time in mind. Late afternoon is a good time to explore, when the light softens and the wine bars begin to fill.