Santa Maria della Scala Museum Complex sits opposite Siena’s Duomo, in a vast former hospital that extends deep beneath Piazza del Duomo. Founded in the Middle Ages, it sheltered pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena to Rome and cared for the sick, the poor and abandoned children. The hospital remained in use until the late 20th century, and its layered spaces now form one of Siena’s most absorbing museums.
The highlight is the Pellegrinaio, the former pilgrims’ hall, where 15th-century frescoes by Domenico di Bartolo and other artists portray the hospital’s daily work. Scenes of patients receiving care, alms being distributed and foundlings being raised offer an unusually vivid view of medieval civic life. Elsewhere, look for the frescoed Sagrestia Vecchia and the church of Santissima Annunziata, home to Vecchietta’s bronze Risen Christ.
Below ground, Siena’s archaeological collections occupy atmospheric vaulted rooms and passageways, adding Etruscan finds to a visit that spans centuries of history. Allow at least two hours to explore, and wear comfortable shoes: the complex has stairs, slopes and uneven floors, with step-free access limited in some areas.
The entrance is on Piazza del Duomo, within Siena’s largely pedestrian historic centre. If driving, park outside the restricted traffic zone and walk in. Check the official museum website before visiting, as opening hours and access to individual sections can change.