The Church of San Cristoforo is a small church on Piazza Tolomei in the historic centre of Siena, a short walk from Piazza del Campo. Its present exterior gives little away about its Romanesque origins, making it an easy place to overlook among the city’s grander monuments.
San Cristoforo’s history is civic as well as religious. In the 13th century, it served as a meeting place for Siena’s governing council, before the construction of the Palazzo Pubblico. Its position beside Palazzo Tolomei, the imposing residence of one of Siena’s powerful medieval families, adds to the sense of how closely faith and politics were entwined in the republic.
The church rewards a pause for its setting as much as its architecture. Piazza Tolomei is generally quieter than the Campo, and the palace’s stone facade and nearby column crowned by the Sienese she-wolf offer a compact lesson in the city’s history. San Cristoforo is an intimate counterpart to the scale and splendour of Siena Cathedral.
Opening hours can be irregular, so treat a look inside as a bonus and enjoy the church and square from outside either way. Dress modestly if the church is open. The centre is best explored on foot: streets can be steep and cobbled, and driving is restricted by the ZTL, so park outside the controlled zone.