Monti is one of Rome’s oldest and most characterful neighbourhoods, a tangle of cobbled lanes, small piazzas and ivy-draped façades between the Colosseum and Via Nazionale. Officially the city’s first rione, or historic district, it is close to the major ancient sites but has a character of its own, with independent shops, neighbourhood bars and apartment buildings lining its sloping streets.
In ancient Rome, much of this area formed part of the Subura, a densely populated quarter known for its noise and rough edges. Julius Caesar is said to have spent part of his youth here. Centuries of history remain visible, from the early church of San Pietro in Vincoli, home to Michelangelo’s Moses, to Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, whose fountain is an informal gathering place for the neighbourhood.
Today, Monti rewards a slow wander. Browse vintage shops and artisan workshops along Via del Boschetto and Via Urbana, stop for a glass of wine, then settle into a trattoria for Roman classics such as carbonara or cacio e pepe. The streets are particularly lively from late afternoon into the evening, when locals and visitors gather around the piazza for aperitivo.
Cavour station on Metro Line B is a convenient starting point, and the neighbourhood is also an easy walk from the Colosseum. Wear comfortable shoes for the uneven cobbles and slopes, and consider booking dinner ahead on weekends. If you’re staying near Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, bear in mind that evenings can be noisy.