Viewpoint

Monte Testaccio

Monte Testaccio is one of Rome’s most unusual landmarks: an artificial hill made almost entirely from the fragments of ancient Roman amphorae. Rising above the Testaccio district, the grassy mound contains the remains of millions of clay jars, discarded over centuries near the city’s former river port.

Most of the amphorae carried olive oil, much of it imported from Baetica in present-day Spain. Once emptied, the jars were broken and their fragments stacked in an orderly way; lime helped control the smell of residual oil. Archaeologists have used inscriptions on the pottery to reconstruct Roman trade and supply networks. Later, wine cellars and taverns were carved into the hill’s cool base, helping shape Testaccio’s eating and drinking culture.

A visit offers a different perspective on Rome, both from the higher ground overlooking Testaccio and in the exposed layers of pottery visible around the mound. Afterwards, explore the neighbourhood market or try Roman dishes such as carbonara and offal at a local trattoria.

Check access before visiting: Monte Testaccio is an archaeological site, and entry is generally restricted to arranged or guided visits. Metro Line B to Piramide is a convenient starting point, followed by a walk through Testaccio. Wear sturdy shoes for the uneven ground, and choose a cooler time of day in summer; the slopes are exposed.