The Church of Saint Louis of the French, or San Luigi dei Francesi, is Rome’s national church for the French community. Tucked between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, it was consecrated in 1589 and pairs a late Renaissance facade with an ornate interior of marble, gilding and frescoes.
The main draw is the Contarelli Chapel, at the end of the left aisle, where three Caravaggio paintings tell the story of Saint Matthew. The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Inspiration of Saint Matthew and The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew show the artist’s dramatic use of light and his ability to make sacred scenes feel startlingly immediate. Seeing all three in the chapel for which they were created is a rare experience.
Admission is generally free, though opening hours can change and the church may close around midday or for services. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and bring a few coins for the chapel lighting. Keep your voice low: this is an active place of worship as well as an art destination.