The Basilica of San Piero a Grado offers a quieter encounter with Pisa’s history, a few kilometres west of the city centre. Set among fields near an old course of the Arno, this Romanesque church is traditionally associated with Saint Peter’s arrival in Italy on his journey to Rome. The story made the site a destination for pilgrims long before the present basilica took shape.
Dating mainly from the 11th century, the church was built over earlier Christian structures, traces of which can still be seen. Its unusual plan has apses at both ends, while reused ancient columns divide the interior into three aisles. Look up at the fresco cycle attributed to Deodato Orlandi, painted around 1300: scenes from Saint Peter’s life share the walls with a procession of portraits of early popes.
San Piero a Grado is worth the detour for its medieval art and rural setting, far removed from the crowds around the Leaning Tower. It is a short drive from central Pisa; local buses towards the coast are another option, and the flat terrain makes cycling possible. Check opening times locally before setting out, as they can vary, and dress modestly for this active place of worship.