Teatro Massimo dominates Piazza Verdi at the edge of Palermo’s historic centre. Italy’s largest opera house is an imposing piece of nineteenth-century architecture, with a broad staircase, Corinthian portico and copper-green dome. Its neoclassical grandeur offers a contrast to the city’s Arab-Norman churches and Baroque palaces.
Designed by Giovanni Battista Filippo Basile and completed by his son Ernesto, the theatre opened in 1897 after a long and contentious construction. It was conceived as a statement of Palermo’s cultural ambition and remains an important venue for opera and ballet. A lengthy closure for restoration lasted from 1974 until 1997. Film fans may also recognise the steps from the closing scenes of The Godfather Part III.
A performance is the most atmospheric way to experience Teatro Massimo, but a guided tour reveals its horseshoe-shaped auditorium, gilded boxes and richly decorated rooms even when the stage is empty. Tour routes and times can change around rehearsals and events, so check the official schedule and book ahead in high season. The theatre is easy to reach on foot from Via Maqueda and Quattro Canti; if you’re driving, check the city’s limited-traffic zone before entering the centre. Return at dusk to see the facade glow above the busy square.