The Oratory of San Lorenzo is a small confraternity chapel tucked behind the Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi in Palermo’s historic centre. Easy to miss from the street, it opens onto one of the city’s finest Baroque interiors. Built as a prayer hall for a lay brotherhood, it offers a glimpse into the devotional life and artistic ambition of old Palermo.
The main attraction is the extraordinary white stucco work by Giacomo Serpotta, created around the turn of the 18th century. Scenes from the lives of St Francis and St Lawrence share the walls with allegorical figures and playful putti, their delicate modelling lending the room a sense of movement. Above the altar is a reproduction of Caravaggio’s Nativity with St Francis and St Lawrence; the original was stolen in 1969 and has never been recovered.
Allow around half an hour to visit, and take time to look closely at the expressions and details in Serpotta’s figures. The entrance is on a side street behind San Francesco, within walking distance of Quattro Canti. Check opening hours and ticket arrangements before setting out, as they can change, and consider pairing your visit with the nearby Oratory of Santa Cita for another view of Serpotta’s work.