The Church of the Gesù, also known as Casa Professa, is one of Palermo’s most extraordinary Baroque churches. Its relatively restrained facade gives little away: inside, polychrome marble inlay, sculpted stucco and frescoed vaults cover almost every surface. Look closely at the chapels and side walls, where the intricate marble patterns can resemble richly woven fabric.
Built by the Jesuits from the late 16th century and embellished over the following centuries, the church formed part of Casa Professa, the order’s major complex in Palermo. Bombing in 1943 caused severe damage, including the loss of parts of the roof and dome. Extensive restoration has recovered much of its splendour, though the interior is also a reminder of the city’s wartime losses.
The church sits in the Albergheria district, close to the bustle of Ballarò market, making its ornate interior a striking contrast to the surrounding streets. It’s an easy stop on a walk through Palermo’s historic centre, with Quattro Canti and the cathedral within walking distance. Check opening hours before visiting, as they can change and may include an afternoon closure. Dress modestly, keep your voice low during services, and allow time to explore the side chapels rather than heading straight back out.