Neighbourhood

Via dei Tribunali

Via dei Tribunali is a long, narrow street through the heart of Naples’ historic centre, and one of the best places to get a feel for the city. Tall, weathered buildings crowd the paving stones, laundry hangs overhead and scooters thread between people stopping for coffee, pizza and conversation.

The street follows the route of the Decumanus Maximus, one of the main east–west roads of ancient Greek Neapolis. Today it runs through the UNESCO-listed historic centre, past layers of religious and civic history. At Pio Monte della Misericordia, Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy hangs in the church for which it was painted; nearby, excavations beneath San Lorenzo Maggiore reveal remains of an ancient Roman market.

Via dei Tribunali is also central to Naples’ pizza culture, with famous pizzerias including Sorbillo and Di Matteo drawing locals and visitors alike. Stop for a slice or a fried snack, then duck down a side street to San Gregorio Armeno, known for its artisans’ nativity scenes. Churches, small workshops and residential buildings sit side by side, giving the area a lived-in energy beyond its headline sights.

Come in the morning for a quieter walk and check church opening hours, as some close for part of the afternoon. Expect queues at the best-known pizzerias, especially around mealtimes. Dante and Museo metro stations are within walking distance; wear comfortable shoes for the uneven paving and stay alert for scooters, even on crowded stretches.