San Lorenzo Maggiore and La Neapolis Sotterrata bring two very different sides of Naples together in one visit. On Via dei Tribunali in the historic centre, a Gothic basilica stands above excavated remains of the ancient city, where visitors can walk past shops and workshops beneath the church.
Founded under the Angevin rulers in the 13th century, San Lorenzo Maggiore is an important example of French-influenced Gothic architecture in southern Italy. The church and adjoining convent also have literary associations: Boccaccio is said to have first seen his beloved Fiammetta here, while Petrarch stayed at the convent.
The underground site reveals part of a Roman macellum, or food market, along with a paved street and spaces associated with everyday trades. The contrast between the lofty church and the working world below makes the complex especially rewarding; museum rooms in the former convent add context through finds from the site.
Allow time for both the basilica and the excavations, and check current opening hours and ticket arrangements before visiting. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as surfaces underground can be uneven, and bring a light layer for the cooler passages. The church is an active place of worship, so dress modestly.