The Basilica of Santa Maria della Sanità stands in Naples’ Rione Sanità, beneath a dome patterned with yellow and green majolica tiles. Built in the early 17th century to a design by Dominican friar-architect Giuseppe Nuvolo, the church has a Greek-cross plan, an elevated marble high altar and a collection of Baroque paintings worth taking time over.
Its most remarkable feature lies below. The basilica was built above the Catacombs of San Gaudioso, named for an African bishop buried here in the fifth century. The underground burial site later acquired unusual tombs for members of the Neapolitan elite: skulls were set into the walls above painted figures representing the people they had belonged to.
A visit connects the basilica’s religious history with the life of Rione Sanità today. Local cooperatives have helped bring attention and visitors back to the neighbourhood, and guides from the area lead tours through the catacombs. Afterwards, explore the busy surrounding streets or stop for a pizza fritta.
Check catacomb tour times in advance and book ahead during busy periods. Dress modestly for the church and bring a light layer for the cool underground passages. Materdei and Museo metro stations are within walking distance; comfortable shoes are useful on the neighbourhood’s uneven streets.