Hidden behind the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio, the Portinari Chapel is one of Milan’s most absorbing early Renaissance interiors. Commissioned in the 1460s by Pigello Portinari, who managed the Milan branch of the Medici bank, it brought Florentine ideas of proportion and decoration to a city where Gothic architecture still held sway. Its architect is uncertain, though the design has often been attributed to Michelozzo.
The chapel’s greatest draw is its fresco cycle by Vincenzo Foppa, depicting episodes from the life of Saint Peter Martyr, the Dominican friar killed in 1252. Look closely at the expressive crowds and architectural settings, then lift your eyes to the colourful dome. Beneath it stands the elaborate marble tomb of the saint, carved by Giovanni di Balduccio in the 14th century—a striking Gothic work in a Renaissance setting.
Entry to the Portinari Chapel is generally through the Sant’Eustorgio museum rather than the church, so check current opening times and ticket arrangements before visiting. Tram 3 stops nearby, and the basilica is an easy walk from the Colonne di San Lorenzo. Allow at least half an hour for the chapel and more if you plan to explore the basilica; modest dress and a quiet voice are appropriate at this religious site.