Behind the sixteen Roman columns on Corso di Porta Ticinese, the Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore is one of Milan’s oldest churches. Founded in the late Roman period, when Milan was an imperial capital, it retains an unusual quatrefoil layout: four curved bays open around a lofty central space beneath the dome.
The basilica has been damaged and rebuilt over the centuries, with the dome reconstructed in the sixteenth century. Its layers of history are especially vivid in the Chapel of Sant’Aquilino, where late Roman mosaics include a depiction of Christ among the apostles. Outside, the Colonne di San Lorenzo were salvaged from an earlier Roman building and now frame one of Milan’s most sociable public spaces.
Visit for the contrast between the monumental, often peaceful interior and the lively piazza beyond. The basilica offers a different perspective on religious architecture in Milan from the Gothic Duomo, while the surrounding Ticinese neighbourhood is well placed for an aperitivo or a walk towards the canals.
Weekday mornings and early afternoons are generally quieter; the square grows lively towards evening. The basilica is around a 20-minute walk from the Duomo and can also be reached by tram. Check current opening hours before visiting, dress modestly for an active place of worship, and note that the Chapel of Sant’Aquilino may require a separate ticket.