Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest surviving neighbourhood, a steep maze of lanes and stairways spilling down from São Jorge Castle towards the Tagus. Its irregular street plan bears traces of the city’s Moorish past, and much of the district survived the 1755 earthquake that devastated central Lisbon. Tiled façades, tiny squares and washing strung between windows give its streets a character quite different from the orderly Baixa below.
The neighbourhood is closely associated with fado, Portugal’s expressive musical tradition, which can still be heard in intimate restaurants and fado houses. The Museu do Fado, near the waterfront, offers useful context before an evening performance. Alfama remains a lived-in neighbourhood, although tourism and short-term rentals have changed its character and put pressure on residents.
For views over Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops, stop at the miradouros of Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol, then wander the lanes between them. Nearby, Feira da Ladra fills Campo de Santa Clara with second-hand goods and curiosities on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Early morning is a rewarding time to explore, when the streets are quieter and the light falls softly across the rooftops.
Wear shoes with good grip: Alfama’s cobbles and steep steps can be tiring and slippery. Tram 28E is a scenic way to reach the area, but it gets crowded, so keep valuables secure. For lunch, look beyond the busiest viewpoint terraces for a small tasca serving traditional Portuguese dishes.