The Church of Santa Maria del Carmine stands on a broad piazza in Florence’s Oltrarno, its unfinished stone façade giving little away. Founded by Carmelite friars in the 13th century, the church was largely rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1771. Its Baroque interior is impressive, but the chief reason to visit is a Renaissance chapel that survived the blaze.
The Brancacci Chapel contains a fresco cycle begun in the 1420s by Masaccio and Masolino and completed decades later by Filippino Lippi. Much of it follows the life of Saint Peter, but Masaccio’s anguished Adam and Eve in the Expulsion from the Garden of Eden are among its most memorable figures. The frescoes’ convincing sense of space and human emotion influenced generations of artists and helped change the course of Italian painting.
Allow time for the rest of Santa Maria del Carmine, including the ornate Corsini Chapel, before exploring the surrounding streets of artisan workshops, trattorias and wine bars. The church is a short walk from Santo Spirito and roughly 15 minutes on foot from Ponte Vecchio, making it an easy stop on an Oltrarno afternoon.
The Brancacci Chapel is ticketed, and advance booking is advisable, particularly in busy months. Check current opening times for both the chapel and the church, as their schedules can differ. This is an active place of worship, so dress modestly and keep your voice low.