Rising 412 metres directly above Dubrovnik's old town, Mount Srđ delivers what is arguably the most dramatic coastal panorama in the entire Adriatic. From the summit, the terracotta rooftops of the walled city shrink into a perfect miniature below you, the Elaphiti Islands scatter across a swimming-pool blue sea, and on clear days the mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina press against the eastern horizon. It's the kind of view that makes you understand, immediately and viscerally, why people have been fighting over this city for centuries.
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