Rocchetta Mattei Castle rises above the Reno Valley near Riola, in the Apennines southwest of Bologna. Built as a romantic residence rather than a defensive fortress, it combines Gothic towers and crenellated walls with Moorish-inspired arches and courtyards. The result is one of the most unexpected architectural sights in the Bologna area.
Count Cesare Mattei began building the castle in the mid-19th century on the site of a medieval stronghold. A politician and self-taught healer, he became known for electrohomeopathy, a system of remedies now regarded as pseudoscience. His unusual career and tastes shaped the castle’s theatrical interiors, from the Alhambra-inspired Cortile dei Leoni to the decorated chapel where he is buried.
A visit rewards curiosity: staircases, intricate details and sudden changes of style make the castle feel like a maze. Tours are generally guided, offering useful context for Mattei’s story and the building’s eclectic design. Check opening days and book ahead, as schedules can change seasonally. From Bologna, take a regional train to Riola and walk uphill to the castle in sturdy shoes; drivers should allow time for winding roads and potentially limited parking.