Havana Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go

Havana is unlike any other city in the Americas, and not just because of its politics. The architecture is crumbling and extraordinary: 18th-century Spanish colonial alongside Soviet-era concrete alongside Art Deco theatres alongside restored UNESCO plazas. The cars from the 1950s that circulate as taxis are not a tourist contrivance; they’re the working vehicles of a country that couldn’t import new ones for decades. The city of two million is vivid, musical, and genuinely challenging to visit as a foreigner, not because it’s dangerous, but because the logistics of money, internet, and the formal/informal economy require real preparation.

Neighborhoods worth knowing

Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is the UNESCO-listed historic core: the Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral, the Capitolio Nacional, the Bodeguita del Medio. It’s a roughly 3km² area of colonial-era buildings in various states of restoration and deterioration. The restored plazas are polished for tourism; the surrounding streets show the real pace of the city. Most of what visitors want to see is here.

Centro Habana is the working-class district immediately west of the old city: denser, louder, less restored, and more genuinely residential. The street life is intense; the restaurants and paladares (private family restaurants) are often better value than the touristy Old Havana options.

Vedado is the early-20th-century residential and commercial district further west: the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, the Malecón, the Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón (one of the most elaborate cemeteries in the Americas), and the neighborhood’s street grid of mansions and Soviet-era apartment blocks. More spread out than Old Havana.

Miramar is further west still: former wealthy suburb, now home to embassies and some of the better restaurants in the city. Less visited and worth the trip for a meal.

Playas del Este, beaches 20km east of Havana, are the city’s beach option: Bacuranao, Guanabo, and Santa María del Mar. Reached by taxi or rental car. Not the Cuba of the tourist postcards (that’s Varadero, 140km east) but perfectly usable for a beach afternoon.

When to go

Cuba’s climate divides into wet and dry seasons.

November to April is the dry season: temperatures in the 20–27°C (68–81°F) range, lower humidity, very little rain. This is the most comfortable time to visit.

May to October is the wet (hurricane) season. Rain can be heavy and sustained. Temperatures are higher (30–35°C / 86–95°F) and humidity is oppressive. Hurricane risk peaks from August to October; May and June are the more manageable wet-season months.

December to January is high season. Cuban diaspora returns for the holidays, foreign tourism peaks, prices rise for casas particulares (private guesthouses).

What to see

Habana Vieja: walk it slowly. The restored plazas (Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza de San Francisco) are the centrepieces; the streets between them are the texture. The Hemingway desk (at the Hotel Ambos Mundos, room 511, where he wrote For Whom the Bell Tolls) is a small detail worth the modest entrance fee.

The Malecón, the 8km seawall along the north coast of the city, is less a sight than a place. At sunset, Habaneros gather in groups along the wall to talk, play music, drink rum, and watch the light change. It is one of the great public gathering places in the Americas.

Capitolio Nacional, the domed building modelled loosely on the US Capitol, completed in 1929. The interior is elaborate and accessible via guided tour. The permanent exhibit on Cuban history is inside.

Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón in Vedado is one of the largest cemeteries in Latin America: 57 hectares of elaborate 19th and early 20th-century funerary architecture. The pantheon of Cuban national figures and the elaborateness of the monuments make it worth 2 hours.

La Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) in Vedado, a former cooking-oil factory (El Cocinero) converted into a multimedia arts space that functions as gallery, cinema, concert venue, and bar simultaneously. It closed temporarily in June 2026 and now opens only for announced events. Entry is inexpensive. One of the more interesting things happening in Havana.

Music and nightlife

Havana’s musical culture is the one thing that tourism postcards get right. Son, salsa, mambo, rumba, and jazz are not performance constructs; they’re how the city’s musicians earn their living and express themselves.

Casa de la Música (there are several across the city) hosts live performances of salsa and son. The Galiano branch in Centro Habana has more of a local mix than the tourist-oriented venues.

El Floridita (Hemingway’s daiquiri bar) and La Bodeguita del Medio (mojito origin point) are heritage sites now more than genuine bars: expensive, crowded, and worth one visit for historical context.

Look for performances at the Callejón de Hamel, a small alley in Centro Habana where Afro-Cuban rumba and santería music happen on Sunday mornings. The surrounding murals by artist Salvador González Escalona are the other reason to go.

Getting around

In Havana, this is more complicated than in most cities.

Classic car taxis are the most visible option: negotiated price, tourist-facing, and the fastest way to cross the city. Agree the price before getting in.

Cuban peso taxis (colectivos, shared cars running fixed routes) are for longer-distance routes. You can use them if you know where you’re going; they’re packed and require some Spanish.

Coco taxis (yellow motorized tricycles) are for tourists and more expensive per kilometre than regular taxis. Novelty value.

Walking within Habana Vieja and within Vedado is practical. The distance between them is too far to walk comfortably.

Viazul buses for inter-city travel (Trinidad, Viñales, Santiago de Cuba): the tourist bus service is reliable and bookable in advance.

Practical information

Currency: Cuba’s monetary system has simplified since 2021; the dual-currency system (CUC/CUP) has been eliminated and a single Cuban peso (CUP) is now in use, alongside USD and other hard currencies that are accepted at state dollar stores (tiendas MLC). In practice, bring cash in euros or Canadian dollars. Exchange at official CADECA bureaux de change.

Cash dependency: ATMs in Cuba are unreliable and often do not accept foreign cards. Bring all the cash you will need for the visit in hard currency. This is one of the most important logistical points for visiting Cuba.

Internet connectivity: Cuba has limited internet. SIM cards with data are sold to foreigners at ETECSA offices (bring your passport). Wi-Fi is available in hotels and some public squares. Do not rely on constant connectivity.

US citizens: Travel from the US to Cuba is regulated. Americans can travel legally under one of 12 licensed categories (the most commonly used is “Support for the Cuban People,” which requires genuine engagement with private Cuban businesses and organisations, not government-run tourism). Use a carrier that flies direct US-Cuba routes and keep documentation of expenses at private establishments (casas particulares, paladares). Regulations change; verify the current status with a Cuba travel specialist before booking.

Casas particulares: Private guesthouses run by Cuban families are generally the best accommodation option: cheaper than state hotels, more personal, and the money goes directly to a Cuban family. Book through specialist platforms or agencies.

Frequently asked questions

Is Havana safe for tourists? Yes. Cuba has a low crime rate by regional standards; violent crime against tourists is rare. The main risk is scams and overcharging (particularly for classic car taxis and in tourist-facing restaurants). Agree prices before engaging and research standard rates.

Can Americans travel to Havana? Yes, legally, under one of 12 licensed categories of travel. The most used is “Support for the Cuban People,” which requires staying in casas particulares, eating at paladares, and avoiding government-run hotels and restaurants where possible. Airlines offer direct routes from Miami, New York, and other US cities. Requirements can change; verify current rules before booking.

What currency should I bring to Cuba? Euros or Canadian dollars are the most practical; they exchange without penalty. US dollars can also be exchanged. Bring sufficient cash for your entire stay; foreign ATM cards are not reliably functional. Do not depend on cards.

What is a casa particular? A private guestroom or apartment in a Cuban home, licensed by the government. They are generally cleaner, cheaper, and more interesting than state hotels. The family hosts often provide meals (breakfast included in many, dinner available). Booking through specialist Cuba travel agencies or Airbnb is possible.

How many days do you need in Havana? Three days covers Old Havana, Vedado, the Malecón, and a night of live music. Four days adds the cemetery, a beach trip to Playas del Este, and more time in Centro Habana. Five days is comfortable.

What is the best time of day to see Havana? Early morning in Old Havana before the tour groups arrive, and sunset on the Malecón. Midday is very hot in summer. Evening is when the city comes alive: the music, the street gatherings, the light.

Is the food good in Havana? State restaurants have a poor reputation for reason. Paladares (private restaurants) are significantly better; look for ones in Centro Habana and Vedado that aren’t on the main tourist strip. La Guarida in Centro Habana (in a crumbling Havana mansion, famous from the film Fresa y Chocolate) is expensive by Cuban standards and worth it.

How do I get from Havana airport to the city? José Martí International Airport is 15km south of the city. Official taxis from the arrivals area are the standard option; agree the price before getting in. No metro or bus service connects directly to the airport.